Poor eggs. Their reputation has been through the wringer. One week they’re good for you; the next, they’re a no-no. But the “incredible, edible egg” is now back in the nutrition clubhouse, and for good reason: eggs are versatile, affordable and protein-rich. Eggs also represent fertility and birth—welcome symbolism to help get us through the barren, lingering Minnesota winter. Here are eight great egg iterations from our local eateries.
LEEK, ASPARAGUS and SMOKED GOUDA FRITTATA
A frittata—from the Italian word “to fry”—is like an open-faced omelet: eggs scrambled with aromatics, vegetables and cheese (meat optional) and then sent to the oven for puff and color. The Marsh offers a toothsome and healthy version that resides in the “small plates” section of the menu. The golden disk of fluffy egg is studded with verdant asparagus, pale shreds of leek and ochre pools of melted Gouda cheese. This lush frittata makes a perfect lunch for one or a light appetizer for two. The accompanying “petite salad” is enlivened by an addictive creamy, tangy and slightly sweet red wine vinaigrette. Who ever said that virtuousness was bland? $10. 15000 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka; 952.935.2202
MIDWESTERN KOBE BEEF BURGER WITH A FRIED EGG
Hooray for the foodie trend of the fried egg garnish! We’ve gobbled fried eggs atop pizzas, pasta, salads, sandwiches and even fish. Who knew that the humble breakfast staple could elevate a dinner entree to such giddy heights of deliciousness? The Gold Nugget Tavern & Grille is certainly hip to the phenomenon. Already praised for its excellent burgers, the convivial dining spot knows how to work the art of the topping. We chose the Midwestern Kobe beef burger with lettuce and tomato, then added melted cheddar, caramelized onion, and a fried egg. Kobe beef packs a powerful beef flavor while remaining impossibly tender, and the burst of egg yolk multiplied the yum factor exponentially. A pillowy, buttery, toasted Kaiser bun was just the thing to mop yolk and juice. $16.95. 14401 Excelsior Blvd., Minnetonka; 952.935.3600
PAD THAI
Egg dishes span all cultures, with Asian cuisine leading the way in invention. Our favorite example is Pad Thai — which also happens to be the number five dish on CNN’s “World’s Most Delicious Foods” poll. Thanh Do’s Pad Thai is one of the best we’ve tasted, with a fresh complexity that belies its straightforward ingredients. The springy rice noodles are stir fried with onion and scrambled egg, topped with crunchy bean sprouts and crushed peanuts. It’s zippy with cilantro and ginger, sweet with tamarind, silky with pockets of soft-cooked eggs, and bright with fresh lime and lemongrass. We detected a whisper of chili for heat and added succulent chunks of chicken breast for extra protein. A veritable one-dish wonder. $10.99-$14.99 depending on meat. 8028 Minnetonka Blvd., St. Louis Park; 952.935.5005
MACARONS
Where would dessert be without eggs? Perish the thought! The quintessential Parisian macaron owes its very existence to meringue. These haute sandwich cookies are made from egg whites, ground almonds and food coloring, and filled with delectable things like ganache with passion fruit or pistachio, and rose buttercream. Patisserie Margo offers a daily selection of macarons, including turquoise-blue caramel and sea salt, golden yellow passion fruit and chocolate, mint-green pistachio and white chocolate, and a blushing pink rose cream. We couldn’t pick a favorite, so just get one of each and you’ll have an assortment that’s as pretty as a basket of Easter eggs. Not to be confused with the coconut macaroon, macarons are naturally gluten-free, and simultaneously light and decadent. Each airy bite collapses into a concentrated density of flavor that will make you say ooh la la. $1.75 each. 284 Water St., Excelsior; 952.746.2232
HUEVOS RANCHEROS
This brunch classic is especially satisfying after, ahem, a late night out on the town. At BLVD Kitchen & Bar, two poached eggs recline on crispy-fried corn tortillas swathed in ham-studded pinto beans and rustic roasted salsa. The beautiful mess is adorned with a dollop of sour cream, a mound of fresh shredded lettuce, velvety guacamole, and a generous shower of cilantro. The lime wedge garnish adds a vital tang of citrus and the eggs are just runny enough to pull it all together in a golden cloak. Don’t be surprised to find yourself licking the plate—though you might want to save room for the complimentary “monkey bread,” gooey with cinnamon caramel syrup. You’ll feel satiated, restored and ready for a nap. $12. 11544 Wayzata Rd., Minnetonka; 763.398.3200
BLTE
“The ‘E’ stands for easy,” says our server with a wink. Did he mean, as in, goes down easy? That must have been the case, because this decadent, delectable sandwich left us agog with pleasure. It’s a knife ’n’ fork-er, stacked high, plump and oozing. Thick-cut applewood smoked bacon, leaf lettuce, juicy tomato and creamy avocado are crowned with two fried eggs and presented between garlic herb aoli-slathered 9-grain bread—an ingenious balance of farm, fowl and jowl. If the inventor of the BLT deserves a medal, the inventor of this baby gets a monument. $11. 6501 Wayzata Blvd., St. Louis Park; 952.345.0505
IKURA, TOBIKO and MASAGO
Why should chicken eggs get all the attention? We hit a fish egg jackpot at Yumi’s Sushi Bar. Our server, Jenny Choi, helped us choose a tasty array of ova from the deep. We sampled two kinds of Tobiko, a flying fish roe that’s colorful, as finely grained as sand and bracingly salty. The wasabi (Japanese horseradish) variation was a sinus-clearing electric-green; the squid-infused black Tobiko proved smoky and sweet. The orange Masago, or smelt roe, was the briniest and tangiest of the lot, but the salmon Ikura won us over with its rich essence of salmon and ocean. The unctuous parade of gleaming eggs arrived two by two on a long rectangle of glass, like jewels in a black velvet display case. The warm vinagered sushi rice did its part to balance the briny pop, and a bite of gari—pickled ginger—cleansed the palate between mouthfuls. The generous pieces brim with a precious-seeming pearly bounty; take the time to savor each one while sipping an overflowing (“for good luck and fortune”) cup of cold sake for maximum effect. Tobiko, $5.75; Masago, $4.95; Ikura, $6.75. 28 Water St., Excelsior; 952.474.1720
ULTIMATE BREGGFAST PIZZA
The “Ultimate Breggfast Pizza” sounded like a mad scientist’s experiment on the menu but proved to be a brilliant invention on the palate. Luce’s signature chewy-crispy pizza crust was evenly spread with a layer of hash browns, strewn with crumbles of sweet fennel breakfast sausage, chunks of applewood-smoked bacon, sliced green bell peppers, diced red onion, and held together with soft scrambled eggs. Melted cheddar and pepper jack cheeses nailed it down, making the side of jalapeno ketchup redundant. It’s “personal sized,” meaning it’s suitable for a lumberjack heading into subzero weather. It’s only available for brunch—we’d snarf it down day and night if we could—but at least Luce’s brunch occurs daily, and lasts till 3 p.m. Enjoy it with a spicy bloody from their Bloody Mary bar, which boasts enough condiments to create a meal in itself (8 a.m.-2 p.m. Saturday and Sunday). $9.79. 210 N. Blake Rd., Hopkins; 952.767.0854
