ONLINE HED: Eight Great Dishes that Used to Be ‘Bad’ for Us
Trends
The Pendulum
Food trends that come and go—and come back again.
restaurants
[going out]
by Misa Chappell
photo by Emily J. Davis
Enjoy coffee from YoYo Donuts with a maple bacon donut: they’re both “good” for you!
Hemlines rise and fall; high school fashions sneak back to haunt us; governments veer from left to right and back again. So it is with food. Culinary crazes and nutritional superheroes swoop in and fade away, only to reappear in a contemporary guise. The high-carb, low-fat ’70s and ’80s gave way to the low-carb, high-protein ’90s and aughts.
But now that we’re in this century’s teens, fat is good and salt is back. Eggs, coffee and red meat are no longer verboten; today’s bugbear is gluten. (Sugar, alas, has always been the bad boy and is therefore forever irresistible.)
It’s the old pendulum effect—tastes swing back and forth in perpetuity. Don’t like quinoa? Just wait a decade or two, as it’s sure to sail out on the same ship that spirited away the rice cakes of the ’80s. Tracking food trends is a fascinating, though imperfect, science. We don’t claim to be nutritional experts, but we’ve noticed that certain things proliferate on multiple menus at the same time. Here are some of our inexact (and most delicious) culinary anthropological observations.
DEVILED EGGS
Ike’s Food and Cocktails
Nostalgia plays a huge role in recurring food trends, depending on what era we’re currently infatuated with. It’s safe to say that the ’50s and ’60s are today’s darlings. An emblematic snack from that era was the deviled egg, a scooped-out hard-boiled egg, halved and stuffed with the yolk and mayonnaise. They’re adorable as finger food and they’ve returned to the scene in hip new duds. Head over to Ike’s, a bastion of retro allure, for a version of deviled eggs that is far removed from your grandmother’s mahjong gatherings. The yolk is mixed with chiles, roasted garlic, cilantro and scallions for a surprisingly spicy wallop. Oh, and eggs are good for you now, too (cholesterol be damned)—high in protein, low in calories and inexpensive. $10. 17805 Highway 7, Minnetonka; 952.681.7099; ilikeikes.com
POGGIO MORINO MORELLINO di SCANSANO
Spasso
Oh glory be, red wine has reinvented itself as a heart-healthy indulgence! We are now told that moderate drinking somehow reduces the risk of cardiovascular disease because of something called the French paradox. Whatever the phenomenon is, we’ll take it. Spasso has a breathtaking wine list—more than 100 bottles—and due to their adjacent wine shop, they’re listed at retail prices instead of the usual restaurant markup. Red wine is a natural partner to good food, and Spasso serves great food, mostly of the Italian persuasion. We chose a Poggio Morino Morellino di Scansano, an Italian wine made from sangiovese and syrah grapes. It’s lively, spicy and rounded out with plum and cherry. The menu includes Wine Spectator ratings, and our pick scores high on the charts with 90 points. $5 glass, $15 bottle. 17523 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka; 952.224.9555; spassomn.com
SINGLE-SOURCE DARK ROAST COFFEE
YoYo Donuts
Like salt, coffee was good, then it was bad, and good, then bad, and now, hooray, it’s good again! Starbucks coffee shop chains might have something to do with it, as well as a new awareness of where and how our food is produced. Plus, caffeine makes you think better and exercise longer, so what are you waiting for? There’s no better place to enjoy a supreme cuppa joe than YoYo Donuts (they’re as serious about coffee as they are about donuts). Local roaster Dogwood delivers direct-trade fresh beans every week, and every cup is ground and brewed to order. YoYo is one of only four cafés in the greater Twin Cities area that uses a Clover coffeemaker, a sort of reverse French press that makes one cup at a time—and frankly must be witnessed. We tried a single-source bold from the Fazenda Rodomunho estate in Brazil, a smooth and slightly smoky brew that hardly needed our usual spot of cream. The atmosphere here is super-cute: bubble-shaped coffee cups, exotic coffee bean sacks, and colorful books like The Tiny Donut with a Big Heart. Each cup is so enchantingly complex it veers into oenophile territory: earthy, citrusy, smoky, floral, etc. While you’re enjoying the height of coffee perfection, you may as well get a donut ,too. The maple bacon long john will blow your socks off. House blend espresso, $2.13 for 12 oz., $2.89 for 16 oz. Maple bacon long john, $2.46. 5757 Sanibel Drive, Minnetonka; 952.960.1800; yoyodonuts.com
TUSCAN FLATBREAD
McCormick’s
Sea salt, produced from the evaporation of seawater, is the condiment of the decade, sprinkled on everything from meat and pizza to caramel and chocolate. It’s a high-class enhancement, sometimes called “finishing salt” because it is too precious to just throw into a vat of boiling pasta water. McCormick’s Tuscan flatbread is a perfect example. It’s garlic red sauce, mozzarella, fresh basil and green olives on a cracker-thin crust, finished with coarse sea salt that adds a subtle crunch. We must confess that we don’t really taste a difference, but this flatbread is wonderful no matter what, and we’re happy to participate in the height of food hipness. Oh, and now they’re saying salt isn’t as bad for you as previously thought (though the controversy still rages). $9. 331 Broadway Ave., Wayzata; 952.767.2417; mccormickswayzata.com
ICEBERG WEDGE SALAD
Redstone American Grill
Iceberg lettuce was haughtily dismissed in the 1980s, edged out by arugula, mizuna, radicchio and the like. But just because it’s mostly water doesn’t mean it’s bad for you. In fact, it’s an excellent vehicle (i.e., sturdy, neutral) for all kinds of goodies. It has that Mad Men nostalgia thing going for it, too. Redstone’s wedge salad is great: iceberg, diced applewood-smoked bacon (because everything’s better with bacon), halved grape tomatoes and luscious, thick blue cheese dressing. Half, $3, whole $8.50. 12501 Ridgedale Drive, Minnetonka; 952.591.0000; redstonegrill.com
BACON-WRAPPED ALASKAN COD
Blue Point
Sometimes referred to as meat candy or vegetarian’s kryptonite, bacon is still as bad for you as it ever was, but it is everywhere—even in donuts—and the mantra “Bacon makes everything better” is hard to dispute. It needn’t be overkill: Judicious use of the stuff adds moisture and an addictive smoky, porky flavor. Blue Point wraps bacon around a piece of snowy cod, sealing in the moisture and boosting the mild flavor of the fish. And it’s served with a side of tender, braised greens and tangy orange citronette. $25. 739 Lake St. E., Wayzata; 952.475.3636;
bluepointrestaurantandbar.com
B.T. McELRATH SALTY DOG CHOCOLATE BAR
Lakewinds Natural Foods
We used to scarf down chocolate bars in one go, never stopping to consider the origin of the cacao; it was all about the sugar hit. Like salt and coffee, chocolate has gone artisan, and dark chocolate can be as nuanced as any bottle of wine with prices to match. Minnesota’s own artisan chocolate purveyor, B.T. McElrath, suggests that you “first taste with your eyes, then savor slowly, allowing the harmony of texture and flavor to intermingle and linger long after the chocolate is gone.” Wow—all that foofaraw for a mere candy bar? Oh, but you’ll understand once you taste it. The salty dog bar is made from 70 percent dark chocolate with crunchy butter toffee pieces and a hearty dusting of the oh-so-fab sea salt. This is an intense experience, one square at a time. $6. 7501 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka; 952.473.0292; lakewinds.com
USDA PRIME ANGUS BEEF FILET
Gianni’s Steakhouse
We no longer need catchy commercials to persuade us to eat beef (remember the “Where’s the beef?” campaign?). Now beef is front and center—witness the new proliferation of meat-centric eateries, all providing animal protein that’s tastier than ever. The popular Paleo, aka caveman, diet has given red meat an additional boost (as if it needed any help). Gianni’s Steakhouse is an old favorite, always a luxurious experience of high-quality ingredients. A 6-ounce certified Angus filet is the right amount of tender, rich, deep red meat. $36. 635 Lake St. E., Wayzata; 952.404.1100; giannis-steakhouse.com //
Experience a Mad Men flashback and order an iceberg wedge salad at Redstone.
Photo courtesy of Redstone american grill
Gianni’s prime angus beef filet is a classic,
no matter how the pendulum swings.=
Hemlines rise and fall; high school fashions sneak back to haunt us; governments veer from left to right and back again. So it is with food. Culinary crazes and nutritional superheroes swoop in and fade away, only to reappear in a contemporary guise. The high-carb, low-fat ’70s and ’80s gave way to the low-carb, high-protein ’90s and aughts.
But now that we’re in this century’s teens, fat is good and salt is back. Eggs, coffee and red meat are no longer verboten; today’s bugbear is gluten. (Sugar, alas, has always been the bad boy and is therefore forever irresistible.)
It’s the old pendulum effect—tastes swing back and forth in perpetuity. Don’t like quinoa? Just wait a decade or two, as it’s sure to sail out on the same ship that spirited away the rice cakes of the ’80s. Tracking food trends is a fascinating, though imperfect, science. We don’t claim to be nutritional experts, but we’ve noticed that certain things proliferate on multiple menus at the same time. Here are some of our inexact (and most delicious) culinary anthropological observations.
Deviled Eggs
Ike’s Food and Cocktails
Nostalgia plays a huge role in recurring food trends, depending on what era we’re currently infatuated with. It’s safe to say that the ’50s and ’60s are today’s darlings. An emblematic snack from that era was the deviled egg, a scooped-out hard-boiled egg, halved and stuffed with the yolk and mayonnaise. They’re adorable as finger food and they’ve returned to the scene in hip new duds. Head over to Ike’s, a bastion of retro allure, for a version of deviled eggs that is far removed from your grandmother’s mahjong gatherings. The yolk is mixed with chiles, roasted garlic, cilantro and scallions for a surprisingly spicy wallop. Oh, and eggs are good for you now, too (cholesterol be damned)—high in protein, low in calories and inexpensive. $10.
17805 Highway 7, Minnetonka
952.681.7099
ilikeikes.com
Poggio Morino Morellino di Scansano
Spasso
Oh glory be, red wine has reinvented itself as a heart-healthy indulgence! We are now told that moderate drinking somehow reduces the risk of cardiovascular disease because of something called the French paradox. Whatever the phenomenon is, we’ll take it. Spasso has a breathtaking wine list—more than 100 bottles—and due to their adjacent wine shop, they’re listed at retail prices instead of the usual restaurant markup. Red wine is a natural partner to good food, and Spasso serves great food, mostly of the Italian persuasion. We chose a Poggio Morino Morellino di Scansano, an Italian wine made from sangiovese and syrah grapes. It’s lively, spicy and rounded out with plum and cherry. The menu includes Wine Spectator ratings, and our pick scores high on the charts with 90 points. $5 glass, $15 bottle. 17523 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka
952.224.9555
spassomn.com
Single-Source Dark Roast Coffee
YoYo Donuts
Like salt, coffee was good, then it was bad, and good, then bad, and now, hooray, it’s good again! Starbucks coffee shop chains might have something to do with it, as well as a new awareness of where and how our food is produced. Plus, caffeine makes you think better and exercise longer, so what are you waiting for? There’s no better place to enjoy a supreme cuppa joe than YoYo Donuts (they’re as serious about coffee as they are about donuts). Local roaster Dogwood delivers direct-trade fresh beans every week, and every cup is ground and brewed to order. YoYo is one of only four cafés in the greater Twin Cities area that uses a Clover coffeemaker, a sort of reverse French press that makes one cup at a time—and frankly must be witnessed. We tried a single-source bold from the Fazenda Rodomunho estate in Brazil, a smooth and slightly smoky brew that hardly needed our usual spot of cream. The atmosphere here is super-cute: bubble-shaped coffee cups, exotic coffee bean sacks, and colorful books like The Tiny Donut with a Big Heart. Each cup is so enchantingly complex it veers into oenophile territory: earthy, citrusy, smoky, floral, etc. While you’re enjoying the height of coffee perfection, you may as well get a donut ,too. The maple bacon long john will blow your socks off. House blend espresso, $2.13 for 12 oz., $2.89 for 16 oz. Maple bacon long john, $2.46.
5757 Sanibel Drive, Minnetonka
952.960.1800
yoyodonuts.com
Tuscan Flatbread
McCormick’s
Sea salt, produced from the evaporation of seawater, is the condiment of the decade, sprinkled on everything from meat and pizza to caramel and chocolate. It’s a high-class enhancement, sometimes called “finishing salt” because it is too precious to just throw into a vat of boiling pasta water. McCormick’s Tuscan flatbread is a perfect example. It’s garlic red sauce, mozzarella, fresh basil and green olives on a cracker-thin crust, finished with coarse sea salt that adds a subtle crunch. We must confess that we don’t really taste a difference, but this flatbread is wonderful no matter what, and we’re happy to participate in the height of food hipness. Oh, and now they’re saying salt isn’t as bad for you as previously thought (though the controversy still rages). $9.
331 Broadway Ave., Wayzata
952.767.2417
mccormickswayzata.com
Iceberg Wedge Salad
Redstone American Grill
Iceberg lettuce was haughtily dismissed in the 1980s, edged out by arugula, mizuna, radicchio and the like. But just because it’s mostly water doesn’t mean it’s bad for you. In fact, it’s an excellent vehicle (i.e., sturdy, neutral) for all kinds of goodies. It has that Mad Men nostalgia thing going for it, too. Redstone’s wedge salad is great: iceberg, diced applewood-smoked bacon (because everything’s better with bacon), halved grape tomatoes and luscious, thick blue cheese dressing. $9.
12501 Ridgedale Drive, Minnetonka
952.591.0000
redstonegrill.com
Bacon-Wrapped Alaskan Cod
Blue Point
Sometimes referred to as meat candy or vegetarian’s kryptonite, bacon is still as bad for you as it ever was, but it is everywhere—even in donuts—and the mantra “Bacon makes everything better” is hard to dispute. It needn’t be overkill: Judicious use of the stuff adds moisture and an addictive smoky, porky flavor. Blue Point wraps bacon around a piece of snowy cod, sealing in the moisture and boosting the mild flavor of the fish. And it’s served with a side of tender, braised greens and tangy orange citronette. $25. 739
Lake St. E., Wayzata
952.475.3636;
bluepointrestaurantandbar.com
B.T. McEltrath Salty Dog Chocolate Bar
Lakewinds Natural Foods
We used to scarf down chocolate bars in one go, never stopping to consider the origin of the cacao; it was all about the sugar hit. Like salt and coffee, chocolate has gone artisan, and dark chocolate can be as nuanced as any bottle of wine with prices to match. Minnesota’s own artisan chocolate purveyor, B.T. McElrath, suggests that you “first taste with your eyes, then savor slowly, allowing the harmony of texture and flavor to intermingle and linger long after the chocolate is gone.” Wow—all that foofaraw for a mere candy bar? Oh, but you’ll understand once you taste it. The salty dog bar is made from 70 percent dark chocolate with crunchy butter toffee pieces and a hearty dusting of the oh-so-fab sea salt. This is an intense experience, one square at a time. $6.
7501 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka
952.473.0292
lakewinds.com
USDA Prime Angus Beef Filet
Gianni’s Steakhouse
We no longer need catchy commercials to persuade us to eat beef (remember the “Where’s the beef?” campaign?). Now beef is front and center—witness the new proliferation of meat-centric eateries, all providing animal protein that’s tastier than ever. The popular Paleo, aka caveman, diet has given red meat an additional boost (as if it needed any help). Gianni’s Steakhouse is an old favorite, always a luxurious experience of high-quality ingredients. A 6-ounce certified Angus filet is the right amount of tender, rich, deep red meat. $36.
635 Lake St. E., Wayzata
952.404.1100
giannis-steakhouse.com
