Fine dining isn’t what it used to be, and thank heavens for that. It’s shed its uptight reputation and rigid rules in favor of something lighter and more fun. New upscale eateries are swanky instead of snobby, elegant rather than stuffy. It’s fun to dress up to go out to eat if you’re in the mood, but it is up to you—most places no longer require a tie or jacket (although it’s only polite to leave you your cutoffs at home). Fine dining may evolve, but it won’t ever go away: Witness all the upscale restaurants popping up in the community. But there are certain hallmarks of, and requirements for, fancy dining, and the list depends on the establishment. Some want dim lighting, a hushed room, fine art on the walls, tableside cooking, fancy folded napkins and high-ticket menu items. For us, it must be doable, pleasurable and delicious—upscale with a wink, if you will. Here are our favorite dining options for lavish, comfortable enjoyment.
Pan-seared Halibut
One rule of thumb at a great restaurant is to order something you couldn’t re-create at home with the same quality of ingredients, equipment or technique. Remember, eateries get all the good stuff before it appears in our mere mortal markets, and fish is tricky to cook—one minute too long and it’s toast. Leave it to the professionals: At Coalition, fresh pan-seared halibut is paired with sweet pea purée, grilled carrots, pancetta (Italian bacon) and gremolata, a sprightly mince of garlic, parsley and lemon zest. Halibut is delicate in flavor and sturdy in body, a great vehicle for strong, smoky-zesty flavors. $29. 227 Water St., Excelsior; 952.283.1952.
Tableside Spun Salad
The end-all and be-all of American fine dining is the old-school steakhouse, a perfect example of which is Gianni’s, our old faithful. Tableside food service—think Caesar salad, flambéed bananas—is an old-fashioned ritual of upscale dining, and Gianni’s maintains the tradition with their tableside spun salad. Julia Child, another bastion of old-school kitchen traditions, said, “The only time to eat diet food is while you’re waiting for the steak to cook.” So start your steak dinner with a salad of your own devising, from ingredients like Romaine lettuce, olives, pickled peppers, croutons, parmesan, anchovies, blue cheese, bay shrimp, hard-boiled eggs and bacon. Your waiter will toss your selections into a big stainless steel bowl and mix it up with Caesar dressing for you. All the fun of cooking without lifting a finger. $9. 635 E. Lake St., Wayzata; 952.404.1100.
Truffled Poutine
Lord Fletcher’s Old Lake Lodge
Lord Fletcher’s compound of dining rooms has so much character and charm that it’s a world unto itself. This is what is referred to as “destination dining,” a special sub-category of the fine dining universe. Each dining room has its own character. We like the main room that overlooks the lake—some say a fine view makes everything taste better. Such a spectacular setting demands a special treat: poutine. Never had it before? A Canadian creation from the French-dominated city of Quebec, it's the ultimate pig-out food: French fries doused in gravy and melted cheese. Lord Fletcher snatches this glorious mess out of the greasy spoon and recreates it with fancy ingredients to match this fancy setting. Lord Fletcher's own hand-cut fries come with pungent truffled cheese curds and a decadent bordelaise sauce, a "gravy" made from a heavenly mixture of luxury ingredients: red wine, butter, bone marrow and shallots. $9. 3746 Sunset Drive, Spring Park; 952.471.8513.
Roast Prime Rib of Beef
Prime rib—the fanciest, richest cut of roast beef—is a classic special-occasion dish. It’s available at Jimmy’s, our beloved slinger of all classic recipes, on Fridays and Saturdays only. Plan accordingly, because you need to enjoy this beautiful meal. The meat is heartbreakingly tender, thickly sliced and served with simple au jus, béarnaise (a tarragon-spiked hollandaise) and horseradish sauce. Rare for us, please. 10 oz. $25.95. 11000 Red Circle Drive, Minnetonka; 952.224.5858.
Two-pound Lobster
This gorgeous restaurant is right on Wayzata Bay; an evening here feels like vacation. Chef JP Samuelson’s latest ’do is spacious, elegant and rocks killer views. What’s more, there is an entire lobster section on the menu, not just the usual one entry. There is lobster guacamole, lobster spring rolls with pear, jicama and apple-soy, lobster gnocchi kissed with truffle oil, lobster croquettes and a chilled lobster roll lush with tarragon mayo. But in the end, we still want the classic monster-on-a-plate. Here, it’s a 2-pounder, with three choices of preparation: “angry,” with tomatoes, garlic and cayenne; Thermidor, a French brandy and cream concoction; or “simple,” meaning just steamed and ready to be enjoyed with your bare hands. It’s a lot of sweet meat, but don’t you dare leave any behind—we’re sure that it’s a sin to waste lobster. It comes with grilled corn, fries or coleslaw, and cantimpalitos sausage (and all manner of butter and dippers). $70. 294 E. Grove Lane, Wayzata; 952.698.7900.
Raw Bar
This new joint in the old Sunsets sounds like a pirate’s funky hideaway, where it’s time to hit the raw bar. This one has both West Coast ($4) and East Coast oysters ($3), an elegant way to begin any fine meal. They’re served with fresh horseradish, cocktail sauce, red wine mignonette, a simple sauce made from minced shallots, and cracked black pepper. If you’ve looking for something a bit busier, try the ceviche: scallops, shrimp, roasted sweet corn, avocado and lime zest, with tortilla chips for scooping—a real pirate’s cove treasure. $15. 700 Lake St. E., Wayzata; 952.473.5253.
Stone's Chocolate Cake
There is no place for dieting in fine dining; decadence is an essential part of the scenario. This means, yes, by all means, order dessert! Chocolate cake is the ultimate over-the-top grand finale, and Redstone goes all the way with their version, stacking four layers of dark chocolate cake with creamy chocolate frosting. A thick wedge is escorted by two graceful ovals of vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and chocolate fudge sauce. $9. 12501 Ridgedale Drive, Minnetonka; 952.591.0000.
Brunello Di Montalcino
Service is a crucial part of any fine dining experience; everything from purse stools to heated chairs enriches the dining experience. Spasso has a brilliant—and very welcome—luxury feature: complimentary car service. Their new slinky black Cadillac Escalade will pick up and drop off your party so you can wine and dine yourself without compunction. How perfect, because this is the place where you want to order that extra glass of wine, or even a whole bottle—not only because the wine list is enticing, but because of the adjoining wine shop where the prices are set at retail (usually restaurants have a nearly 300 percent markup on booze). La Palazzetta Brunello di Montalcino is an Italian stunner from the nebbiolo grape in the Tuscan region. This one is from 2005 and is clean and dry, with some cherry. It’s a wonderful sipper and a spot-on accompaniment to the highly flavored menu. Earthy wild mushroom risotto fritters with a pungent gorgonzola sauce ($5) make a snazzy counterpoint of richness and depth. $54. 17523 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka; 952.224.9555.
